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The Tokyo taxi driver: Suit and tie, white gloves optional

No country delivers better service than Japan: in shops, in restaurants, or in taxis.

It’s called “Omotenashi” and translates roughly as hospitality _ or offering customers unreserved attention.

Visitors always comment on it. And it’s no accident.

Take Tokyo taxi driver Norihito Arima, for instance, as he stands alongside 30 or 40 other drivers at a roll call before his 18-hour shift with the taxi company Nihon Kotsu.

He drives in a suit and tie. White gloves are optional. Drivers are not allowed to have tattoos or wear sunglasses, and men must be clean-shaven. The muster wraps up as drivers _ 95% are men _ bow toward a small Shinto shrine. And for good measure, they undergo a breathalyzer before hitting the road.

Norihito Arima, a 33-year-old taxi driver working for Nihon Kotsu, puts on white gloves in his taxi while getting ready to work Oct. 1, 2019, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

“It’s something like the army,” Norihito said.

The company also has a booklet for drivers with 77 dos and don’ts: how and when to speak to passengers, taxi sanitation and opening doors for customers. There’s even one instructing drivers to keep both hands on the wheel.

Taxi service has been a concern at some Olympics: poorly trained drivers, dilapidated cars, and sloppy dress. A decade ago in Beijing, the government published edicts for drivers to stop spitting, clean their taxis, and warned about eating on the job.

Customers also got lessons on waiting in line and not jumping ahead.

This shouldn’t be at problem at next year’s Tokyo Olympics.

Norihito Arima, a 33-year-old taxi driver working for Nihon Kotsu, waits for traffic light to change as he drives along the streets of Tokyo, Nov. 14, 2019. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Japanese people have a pride in this service,” Norihito said in an interview with The Associated Press. “In the western notion, an individual is independent. But we Japanese are homogeneous. We think of each other as part of the society, the community. So the honor we get as a group is part of the honor each member gets.”

Japan is not perfect, of course. Commuters often push to get on crowded subway trains or bump into anonymous strangers on the sidewalk without apology. Westerns usually receive great service, but some other non-Japanese complain they do not.

Japan has a low crime rate, which is good news for taxis drivers. But nocturnal Tokyo presents a heavy-drinking culture that can _ literally _ wind up in the laps of taxi drivers who work overnight, as Norihito does.

“People get drunk and sometimes they throw up in the car, and we have to clean up the car,” Norihito explained. He said he routinely offers a specially designed bag to unsteady customers.

If that doesn’t work, and it’s what he termed, “small damage,” he can clean it up and keep driving. If it’s too bad, this automatically ends his shift, the rest of which goes to cleaning up the mess.

A Nihon Kotsu taxi passes through the Ginza shopping district of Tokyo on a rainy afternoon, Nov. 22, 2019. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Nihon Kotsu taxi driver Norihito Arima's permit is displayed on the dashboard of his taxi at the company's parking garage, Nov. 14, 2019 in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Norihito said the “damage” occurs a couple of times a year and, under company policy, drivers are told not to collect fares from these customers. Why create more problems?

He said it’s not easy to avoid the heavy drinkers. With few exceptions, the law requires drivers to pick up customers requesting a ride. Also, it’s impossible to ignore a customer if a reservation has been booked ahead of time.

“We just can't do anything about it,” he said. “Go back and clean it up, and that’s it.”

Norihito has an MBA and speaks English fluently. For drivers who don’t, the company has a tablet to assist with language and a hotline for translation emergencies.

Drivers can earn about 50,000-60,000 yen _ about $450-550 _ in a typical 18-hour shift. Drivers keep half and the company gets the other half.

Norihito acknowledged that when he started driving three years ago _ he gave up a “boring office job” as a data analyst _ he barely knew his way around Greater Tokyo, an area of about 35 million.

“I couldn’t tell Shibuya from Shinjuku,” he said, despite passing a test that was much less rigorous than, say, London’s famous “The Knowledge” exam for taxi drivers.

“There is no easy job in Japan, but relatively I feel comfortable doing this job,” he said. “I like it because I can do it by myself. Sure, there are problems but I don't need to get involved in office politics.”

Nihon Kotsu taxi drivers attend a roll call meeting at the company's Akabane office, Nov. 14, 2019, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Norihito Arima, a 33-year-old taxi driver working for Nihon Kotsu, blows into a breathalyzer before picking up his key at the company's Akabane office, Oct. 1, 2019, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Taxi driver trainees attend a class at Nihon Kotsu's Akabane office Thursday, Sept. 26, 2019, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Norihito Arima, a 33-year-old taxi driver working for Nihon Kotsu, walks to a taxi for an inspection before a roll call meeting, Nov. 14, 2019, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Norihito Arima, a 33-year-old taxi driver working for Nihon Kotsu, inspects his taxi at the company's Akabane office before heading into the city, Oct. 1, 2019, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Taxis drive on a narrow street in Tokyo's Shimbashi neighborhood, a business and entertainment district, Nov. 22, 2019. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Norihito Arima, a 33-year-old taxi driver working for Nihon Kotsu, waits for traffic light to change in the Shinjuku district of Tokyo, Nov. 14, 2019. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Norihito Arima, a 33-year-old taxi driver working for Nihon Kotsu, studies the map of Tokyo in his taxi while taking a break outside a convenient store, Oct. 6, 2019, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Norihito Arima, a 33-year-old taxi driver working for Nihon Kotsu, wait in line at a convenient store to pay for his dinner, Oct. 6, 2019, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Taxi driver Norihito Arima, 33, eats his dinner in his taxi outside a convenient store, Oct. 6, 2019, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Taxi driver Norihito Arima counts cash he earned from his graveyard shift at Nihon Kotsu's Akabane office, Oct. 9, 2019, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Norihito Arima, a 33-year-old taxi driver working for Nihon Kotsu, takes off his tie after returning from his graveyard shift, Oct. 9, 2019, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Norihito Arima, a 33-year-old taxi driver working for Nihon Kotsu, grabs his bike as he leaves the company's Akabane office after working his shift, Oct. 9, 2019, in Tokyo.(AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)


Text from AP News story The Tokyo taxi driver: Suit and tie — white gloves optional, by Stephen Wade.

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Photos by Jae C. Hong.

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